每次翻看相册的到时候都会觉得时间过得特别快，没想到距离上次写Role Club已经整整过去了2年，这次的主角给到Role Club Underdog

Every time I look through the album, I feel that time flies, I didn’t realize that it’s been 2 years since I last wrote about Role Club, and this time the main character is Role Club Underdog.

2年过去了，Role Club也“理所当然”的涨价了一波，如今手擦CXL马皮工程师已经2000多刀了，Underdog应该也涨了不少，估计也得$1700+了

2 years have passed, Role Club also “naturally” increased the price . Now the hand finished CXL horsehide engineers cost more than $2,000, Underdog should also rise a lot, maybe $1,700 + ?

没办法，由于Brian社交平台玩的比较早，而且他对象给他拍的视频也做的好，所以这几年积累了很多粉丝，同时也造就了他鞋子的高溢价。他做的鞋子价格一路上涨，如今卖这么贵还一鞋难求，定一双要等两三年

There is no way, because Brian started using social media relatively early, and the videos his partners took of him are also good, so he has accumulated a lot of fans in the past few years, which has also contributed to the high premium of his shoes. The prices of the shoes he makes have been rising all the time. Nowadays, Role Clubs are so expensive and hard to find. You have to wait two or three years to order a pair.

更详细的品牌介绍还是请看我2年前写的Role Club工程师

For a more detailed introduction to the brand, please read Role Club Engineer, which I wrote 2 years ago.

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阵亡经过The demise of Underdog

这双Underdog的靴生可谓十分艰难，它是我朋友几年前买的。21年那会，当时我朋友还在武汉上大学，暑假期间把靴子放在武汉的一间房子里。那个房子采光好的离谱，光照非常强。存放衣服鞋子的那个房间没装窗帘，每天被各种晒。也许是因为温度过高，放在右脚靴子里的防潮包（内含透明颗粒）融化了

悲剧的是，等放完假回来我朋友才发现这个情况，此时靴子已经严重变形了

These Underdog boots had a tough life, my friend bought them a few years ago. In 2021, when my friend was still going to college in Wuhan, he put the boots in a house in Wuhan during the summer vacation. The house was ridiculously well-lit, and the light was very strong. The room where they were stored had no curtains and was exposed to all kinds of sunlight every day. Perhaps because of the high temperature, the moisture-proof bag (containing transparent granules) in the right boot melted!

Tragically, my friend only found out about this when he came back from vacation, and by then the boot was already badly deformed!

事后分析的话，应该是由于高温度+长日照+防潮颗粒融化产生了一些奇妙的化学反应，使得皮革里的水分和其他物质快速散失，最终收缩硬化了

In hindsight, it should have been due to some wonderful chemical reaction caused by high temperature + long sunlight + melting of the moisture-proof granules, which caused the water and other substances in the leather to dissipate rapidly and eventually shrink and harden

这个故事告诫我们，放在鞋包里的防潮包一定要及时取出，指不定哪天破了没发现，那就倒大霉了。我在小红书上也刷到过类似的情况，基本都是防潮包造成的惨案。

This story warns us that the moisture-proof bag placed in the shoe or bag must be taken out in time, maybe one day it breaks without noticing, then it will be bad luck. I also saw similar situations on xiaohongshu , basically the moisture-proof bag caused the tragedy.

所以我觉得最好一开始就不要使用防潮包了，防患于未然。我自己是弄了台除湿机在梅雨季节一直开着，不然也容易发霉

So I think it’s best not to use a moisture-proof bag in the first place, just in case. I got a dehumidifier to keep on all the time during the rainy season, or else it would be prone to mold as well

重生方案The Rebirth Plan

后来，朋友对工装的兴趣逐渐降低，他把靴子全权交给了我，看我能不能想办法处理好。泡水补油之类的办法我都试过了，完全没用。皮革的弹性和韧性是有限度的，超过限度后就无法恢复了

最后我联系了XBXS西部鞋神，鞋神说只能通过重建的方式才能修复，然后我把靴子寄了过去

后面的过程进展很缓慢，由于一直没有确定好修鞋方案+当时我和朋友都比较忙+各种其他原因，我俩后来都忘记了这双鞋的存在，导致它在鞋神那边默默放置了2年

时间线拉回到今年6月，我去了一趟东莞，在鞋神厂里想起来了这双鞋并找到了它。因为终究都是要重建的，所以这双鞋其中一只已经被拆掉了

Then, as my friend’s interest in workmanship dwindled, he gave me full authority over the boots to see if I could figure out how to deal with them. I tried soaking and replenishing the oil and so on, but it was completely useless. There is a limit to the elasticity and toughness of leather, beyond which there is no recovery.

Finally I contacted the XBXS. Mr. Luo said the only way to fix it was rebuild, and then I sent the boots in!

The process was very slow, due to the lack of a good rebuild plan + my friend and I were both busy at the time + various other reasons, we both forgot about the existence of this pair of underdog, resulting in it being silently placed at XBXS for 2 years!

Timeline back to June this year, I went to Dongguan, in the XBXS factory I remembered this pair and found it. One of the shoes had already been torn down because it was all going to be rebuilt eventually.

于是我联系朋友问他想怎么改，他表示完全忘记了这双鞋，接着他说自己工作之后已经退坑工装了，把工装靴全卖掉了，这双就算能修好也不会再穿了。所以，他把这双鞋送给了我。为了表达谢意，后来我去上海请他吃了饭

So I contacted my friend and asked him what he wanted to do to rebuild them, and he said that he had completely forgotten about the boots, and then he said that he had lost interest in vintage workwear after his job, and sold all his work boots, and that he wouldn’t wear these even if he could get them fixed. So he gave them to me. To express my gratitude, I went to Shanghai and invited him to dinner.

就这样，我收获了意外之喜：一双Role Club的尸体。鉴于Role Club的保有量极低，估计这具尸体应该也是独一无二的了。。。

接着，我开始思考应该如何重生这双鞋子，想出了3个方案

That’s how I ended up with a surprise: a pair of Role Club corpses. Given that Role Club’s ownership is extremely low, I guess this corpse should be unique as well.

Then, I started to think about how I should rebuild this pair of boots, and came up with 3 options

①两只都拆掉，拼黑色皮上去，然后两只鞋面都染黑，最后变成一双纯黑的Underdog

① Tear down each boot and sew black leather on them, then dye both uppers black and end up with a pair of black Underdog

②两只都拆掉，弄一个双色Two Tone效果，翻了下Brian的ins，Role Club官方有黑红的Underdog样式参考

② Tear down each boot and sew other leather on them to get a two tone effect

③拼一个相近颜色的皮面上去，为了质感接近，还是得把未损坏的右脚给拆掉

③Sew a similar color leather, in order to get a similar texture, still have to tear down the undamaged right boot

6月份的广东之旅并未确定好重建方案，于是继续放置了好几个月。今年10月我又去了一趟广东，这次我总算确定好了方案。我打算使用之前囤的威士忌色的Guidi马后身皮，把皮革手工染成深棕色后，再与原鞋面拼接，做出一个Two Tone双色效果

A trip to Guangdong in June did not result in a finalized rebuild plan. This October I made another trip to Guangdong, and this time I finally made up a plan. I’m going to use the whisky Guidi horsebutt that I bought, hand-dye this leather to a dark brown, and then sew it with the original upper to create a Two Tone effect

在10月的东莞之旅中，我在鞋神厂里自己动手把另一只鞋也拆了。拆过几双鞋子之后，我觉得把鞋子拆掉就是一个祛魅的过程，会发现原来贵的鞋子里面也没啥特别的

During my trip to Dongguan in October, I tore the other boot down myself in the XBXS factory. After tearing down a few pairs of boots, I felt that tearing down the boots was a process of getting rid of the charm, and I would find that there was nothing special inside the original expensive boots.

在这堆部件中可以分析出不少细节，比如厚实但却未经正统开槽处理的内底，从外往内捅的手缝沿条方式，通过铆钉固定到大底上的勾心等等

There are quite a few details that can be analyzed in this pile of parts, such as the thick but unorthodox grooved insole, the hand-stitched along the strip way of poking from the outside to the inside, the shanks that are fixed to the outsole by rivets, and so on.

搭配这个表情包就很有喜感

It’s very joyful to match this meme

就这样，一场横跨2年的拆解结束了。感觉是一个很有意思的经历，也算是好事多磨吧。这2年鞋神出了超线，所以可以用超线的标准进行重建了，费用是400美元

And just like that, a teardown spanning 2 years is over. It felt like a fun experience and kind of a good thing. This rebuild cost $400.

我写了一份完整的重建配置表，剩下的就都是鞋神厂里的精英师傅与版师的工作了

I wrote a complete rebuild configuration sheet, and the rest is all the work of the elite masters and pattern makers in the XBXS factory

Role Club重建配置表：

鞋面：拆到只剩帮面一部分，拼接Guidi马皮（把寄过去的日落黄Guidi马皮手染成接近黑色的深棕色），做成拼皮效果

Role Club rebuild configuration table:

Upper: Only keep the quarter and sew Guidi horsebutt (hand-dyed to dark brown) to create a two tone effect.

背条皮也染成一样的颜色

Hand dye backstay with the same color

鞋楦：9号楦，41码，鞋头无支撑

工艺：固特异，平沿条，270外线，超线标准

外线：白色

沿条、边墙、后跟颜色：深棕

鞋底：DrSole Supergrip II 半掌，白色前掌，白色后跟

鞋跟：磨出与原来一样的曲根

Last: 009 last, size EU41, unconstructed toe

Construction: Goodyear, flat welt, 270 degree welt stitch

Welt stitch color: white

Edge Color: Dark Brown

Sole: DrSole Supergrip II half sole

Heel: logger

重建期间，鞋神还拍摄了几张过程图片，不过都是手机随拍，能看个大概就行

首先需要开版，还好右脚是完好的，拆掉所有鞋面以后就可以开出版了，进而再通过镜像得到左脚的版。但这双原鞋适合的是270~275mm脚长，大概欧码43左右。为了重建为41码，版面也得重新调整。所以，为了把版面调整到位，鞋神还试做了一双翻毛版本

接着，鞋面缝线也比较关键，需要师傅静下心来慢慢操作缝纫机，以确保新旧鞋面的针孔能对上

During the rebuild, Mr.Luo also took a few pictures of the process

First of all, this rebuild needs a pattern, fortunately, the right boot is intact, after removing all the uppers, you can get the pattern. However, the original boots fit a 270~275mm foot length, probably around size EU43. In order to rebuild to size EU41, the pattern had to be readjusted as well. So, in order to adjust the pattern into the right place, Mr.Luo also made a pair of roughout underdog

Next, the upper stitching is also more critical, which requires the master to calmly and slowly operate the sewing machine to ensure that the pinholes of the old and new uppers can be aligned.

鞋神的机器流程我在之前的红翼重建视频里都拍过，鞋神这次没有记录下每个过程，所以直接快进到上好大底的样子

I’ve filmed all of the XBXS machine processes in previous Red Wing rebuild video, and Mr.Luo didn’t record every process this time, so I just fast-forwarded straight to the bottoming procedure

做完所有后处理工作后，重建就完成了，下面是最终的效果

After finishing, the rebuild is complete, and here is the final result

重生效果 Rebirth Effect

等了2年多，总算迎来重生。拿到手，感觉被帅哭，这个009号楦真挺好看的

After waiting for more than 2 years, it is finally reborn. When I got it in my hand, I was stuning. The 009 last is pretty nice.

与之前买的工程师摆在一起，感觉这次重建的整体效果非常好

Placed alongside the previously purchased 2307 last engineer boots, I think the overall effect of this rebuild is absolutely great

腰部我觉得对于工装来说略微收一点就可以了，但美中不足的是鞋头被压出了两道痕迹，不知道是不是运输的锅

I think the waist should be slightly tucked in for workwear, but the only drawback is that there are two marks on the toe. I don’t know if it’s due to transportation.

一些细节图，超线标准的重建，使得Role Club的整体质感和观感进一步提升了。照片本身是自己会说话的，大家把图片放大仔细看就能知道做的怎么样了

This rebuild has further enhanced the overall texture and look of the Role Club. The photos themselves speak for themselves, so zoom in and take a closer look to see what’s been done!

美式翘臀与曲跟

American ass, nice heel curve

可以看到由于后跟绷楦的时候受力，颜色变浅了一些，这样就形成了一种三色效果，感觉更有趣了

You can see that the color has lightened a bit due to the force applied to the heel when lasting, which creates a three-color effect that feels more fascinating

保留了原鞋的无内衬设计

Retains the unlined design of the original boots

继续使用薄一点的Dr.Sole Super Grip II鞋底

Dr.Sole Super Grip II in white

图片到此结束了，该拍的角度都拍到了，接下来就是旧化这双经历曲折的靴子了，后续会更新旧化效果

本次分享就到这里，我们下次再见~

Pictures to this end, the angle of the shot have been shot, then it’s time to beat this boots, I’ll update some patina on my Instagram, please stay tuned

This is the end of this sharing. See you next time.